Follow these instructions to create the culottes and pants with and without front hip pockets.
Start the culottes by marking the front and back pleats on the fabric.
Then, fold the pants and press with your iron in the middle line.
After this, stitch from top about 6’’ to 7’’ to the bottom. Now, press the pleat again.
Then, open the pants and press the pleat facing the side seams.
Repeat with the back pleats.
For this style, please cut on the round line of the front pants to be able to insert the pockets.
Add the front pocket to the pants and pin in the curved line.
Then stitch the pocket to the front pants with a straight stitch.
Make a few small notches on the curve so it is easier to turn to the right side.
Turn the pocket to the right side of the fabric. Adjust and press with your fingers to make sure the pocket is not visible to the right side of the pants.
Then, press with the iron and top stitch with a 1/8 inch seam allowance.
Now, place the back pocket on top of the front pocket, right sides facing and matching the side seams.
Stitch them together with an overlock or zigzag stitch. You can also use a bias binding method to cover the raw edges.
Now, place one of the front and back pants together, right sides facing and pin along the side seams.
Stitch the inseam of the pants with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Then, press flat.
Now, stitch the side seams of the pants with an overlocking stitch or a serger and a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
On the other leg, stitch the side seam first, using a long stitch setting for the first 7’’ (from top to bottom) so you can insert the zipper.
Open the leg and press the seams open.
Then, place the zipper on top, right side facing down.
Pin and stitch to the leg with a regular stitch and 1/8 inch seam allowance.
After this, stitch the inseam with a 3/8 inch seam allowance and press flat.
Now that both legs are ready, you will need to attach them.
Turn the left leg to the right side of the fabric and insert it into the other leg, on the wrong side of the fabric. Match the inseam and pin along from front to back.
Then, stitch the legs together, right sides facing with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Place the front facing pieces together, right sides facing and pin in the center seam.
Stitch them together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Then, open and press the seams flat.
Repeat this with the back facing pieces.
Now, place the front and back facing pieces together, right sides facing and stitch the side seams with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seams again.
Then, place the facing and the pants together, right sides facing and stitch them together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
After that, turn the pants to the right side and press the facing to the inside of the pants. Make sure the facing is not visible from the right side of the fabric and press flat.
Then, topstitch the facing with a 1/8 inch seam allowance.
Fold the belt in half and make a clear crease.
Then, open the belt and fold it, this time by matching the top and bottom to the middle crease you have made.
Press again carefully.
Finally, fold the belt again.
After that, topstitch the belt with a 1/8 inch seam allowance on top, bottom and sides.
Repeat this procedure with the belt loops.
Now, place the belt loops to the pants, right sides facing (as shown on the image.) Stitch the belt loops to the pants with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Then turn them down and fold the bottom of the belt loop 3/8 inch.
Press flat and stitch to the pants.
Finally, hem the pants with a 1’’ seam allowance and press flat.
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