How to Make the Abigail Dress
Gather the back bodice pieces and place them together from the center back; right sides facing.
Pin the pieces together.
Now, stitch the center back with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. You can use a serger, or an overlocking stitch for a clean seam finishing. Then, press the seams open flat.
Open the back bodice and press the seams flat again.
Close the bust darts and press them flat pointing to the bottom.
Then, place front and back bodices together, right sides facing.
Match the shoulder and side seams and pin them with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Now, stitch the shoulder seams and side seams with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
To finish the edges of the dress neckline you might want to use a double fold bias tape 1/2’’ wide or use the facing pieces attached to the pattern file.
LONG SLEEVES OPTION:
Start by closing the elbow dart and press flat, facing the bottom.
Fold the sleeve in half. Then, stitch the seam with a 3/8 inch seam allowance and press flat.
Turn the sleeves to the right side and insert them into the bodice. Match the armhole notches and armhole seam with the bodice side seams.
Then, stitch the sleeves to the bodice with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.11.
Take the sleeve to the right side and fold the cuffs 1’’ to the inside.
Then stitch it with a twin needle or a zig zag stitch.
You can also double fold the cuffs 1/2 inch each time and use a straight stitch to finish.
FOR THE PETAL SLEEVES:
Gather the short sleeve pieces to the table. Finish the bottom and center of the sleevees as you like. You can use your serger or bias tape to do this.
Place them together overlapping the front over the back sleeve (check on the notches of the sleeve to do this).
After overlapin the sleeves, hand or machine baste them together.
Then, fold the sleeves in half and stitch the seam together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Then, turn the sleeves to the right side of the fabric and insert them into the top or dress.
Match the side seam of the sleeve with the side seam of the dress and pin the sleeve and the top/dress together.
Now, stitch the sleeve to the dress with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Turn the sleeves to the wrong side and press them flat.
Double fold the hemline with a 1/4 inch seam allowance first and a 1 inch seam allowance after. Press the hemline and stitch it with a straight stitch and 1/8 inch from the edge.
After stitching the hemline, press flat again.
a) to start, finish the seams on the cutout piece with a serger, or zigzag stitch.
b) To finish the front cutout of the top/dress, place the cutout facing on top of the dress/top, right sides facing.
Stitch around the cutout with a 1/8 inch seam allowance.
After this, turn the top/dress to the wrong side.
Then, turn the facing to the right side and press flat.
Stitch the facing to the top/dress with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
ADDING THE FACING TO THE DRESS AND TOP
a) Place the back facing pieces together, right sides facing and stitch the center back seam with a regular stitch and 3/8 inch seam allowance.
b) Open the back facing piece flat and press the seams opened.
c) Then, place front and back facing pieces together, right sides facing and stitch the shoulder seams with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
d) Press the seams again.
Now, add the facing to the dress, right sides facing.
Stitch the facing and the dress together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
Press the seams flat and trim about 1/4 inch from it.
Turn the dress to the wrong side and the facing to the right side.
Then, stitch the facing to the dress with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and press it flat.